Holi in Vrindavan — I Almost Didn't Go. I'm So Glad I Did.
- Apr 16
- 6 min read
When a few friends from yoga school suggested celebrating Holi in Vrindavan, my first reaction was — why? Vrindavan during Holi is known to be chaotic, overwhelming, and packed with crowds. Most of these friends were women from the West, which added to my worry. How would they manage? Did they know how unsafe certain festival spaces in India could be for women?
As an Indian woman, I'd never go to such festivals on my own. My childhood experiences had left their mark — memories of being jostled, touched without consent, feeling invisible yet exposed all at once. Every blog I read about solo women travellers and their experience at Holi in Vrindavan seemed to echo the same story — men throwing colours aggressively, unwanted touch, uncomfortable encounters.
And yet. That little voice within me whispered — what if this time is different? What if this could be a once-in-a-lifetime experience?
With a group of nine and a promise I made to my inner child — that I would stand up for myself no matter what — I boarded a sleeper bus to Vrindavan. And oh boy, the universe had something beautiful planned.
Arriving in Vrindavan
The bus pulled in around 4 am. Barely slept (the driver had music blasting the entire ride — much to the delight of my very enthusiastic foreign friends who were giddy just at the idea of sleeping in a sleeper bus 😄). After some spirited auto-rickshaw fare negotiations, we made it to the hotel.
Too awake to sleep, the hotel staff recommended us to visit ISKCON temple for the 5 am aarti. What a suggestion! The temple was already full — devotees circling the Tulsi plant in prayer, the air thick with incense and devotion. We weren't expecting such energy at that hour. It was beautiful, though we left a little deflated — the staff were quite persistent about getting us to learn mala jaap and read the ISKCON books, which felt more like a push than a welcome. Everyone has their own path to devotion, and that morning, ours was simply to observe and absorb.
But our spirits lifted the moment we spotted a cow having a peaceful meal at a roadside dhaba while the owner & dog napped away, blissfully unbothered. Vrindavan, in all its quirky glory, had already won us over.
The real turning point was meeting a friend-of-a-friend — a local from Vrindavan. He was, without question, universe-sent. His knowledge, warmth, and connection to the city transformed our entire trip. I've come to believe that some meetings aren't coincidences — they're part of a bigger plan.
Holi Morning — Magic in the Streets
We decided to start early to celebrate Holi and meet at ISKCON around 9 am. All nine of us packed into one tuk-tuk (as one does in India :D), and by the time we reached the temple, we were already smeared in colour — strangers had been joyfully throwing gulaal at passersby along the route.
Our local friend guided us away from Banke Bihari temple (packed to capacity even at that hour) and we started walking through the lanes of Vrindavan. As we passed Radha Damodar temple, something made him stop — a pull, an instinct, perhaps an inner calling — and we followed him in.
What happened next is something I'll never fully be able to put into words. And I say that having tried haha.
Drums beating. Colours flying through the air like clouds. Aarti happening simultaneously in the background. Devotees dancing, laughing, utterly lost in the moment. I stood still for a few minutes and just soaked it in. In that moment, the little voice returned — you are blessed. You are protected. You surrendered, and the universe delivered.
We stayed inside for hours, dancing and playing with colours until none of us wanted to leave.
The Moments That Stayed With Me
Walking through Vrindavan's lanes that morning, strangers approached us with colours in their palms, wished us Radhe Radhe and Happy Holi, and moved on — no aggression, no inappropriate contact, just pure celebration. I felt something loosen in my chest.
And then I saw something that stopped me completely.
A man walking through the crowd, cradling a small idol of baby Krishna in his arms — what devotees in Vrindavan lovingly call Lalla, the beloved child form of Krishna. I asked him why he was carrying the idol through the Holi celebrations. He smiled and said, simply, "So that he can play Holi with us too."
I didn't have words then. I still don't.
And if you think Holi in Vrindavan is only for humans — think again. I spotted cows with gulaal smeared across their faces and backs, looking completely unbothered and, honestly, rather regal about it. Because of course. This is Vrindavan. Even the cows celebrate. 🐄🌸
From Temple to the Yamuna
After Holi, no one was ready to head back. So we walked to the Yamuna river, where our local friend surprised us with a boat ride. Floating on the Yamuna, colours drying on our skin, music drifting across the water — the day had gone from beautiful to magical to something I genuinely don't have words for.
The tuk-tuk ride back to the hotel was its own adventure — strangers threw buckets of coloured water on us the entire way. We arrived drenched, laughing, hearts full.
It is a Holi I will never forget & cherish forever.
As much as I'd love to keep reliving that day, there are a few practical things I want to share - especially for the women reading this.
Tips for Women Travelling to Vrindavan for Holi
My experience was wonderful — but context matters. A few honest tips:
Go in a group. This made all the difference for us. The camaraderie and collective confidence changes the dynamic completely.
A local guide or contact is invaluable. Ours shaped the entire trip. If you can find one through a trusted connection, do it.
Avoid solo travel during Holi specifically. The crowds are intense. For everyday visits to Vrindavan, solo travel is perfectly manageable — but for Holi, a group is strongly recommended.
Start early. The temples get packed quickly. Arriving by 9 am gives you space to breathe and absorb the atmosphere.
Places to Visit in Vrindavan (Beyond the Obvious)
Most visitors head straight to Banke Bihari temple — and yes, it is the most sacred temple in Vrindavan and worth seeing, even if the crowd is overwhelming. But if you want to experience the soul of this city, here are the places I truly fell in love with:
Tatiya Sthan — It's a highly traditional temple near the Yamuna riverbank, known for its strict adherence to ancient, non-commercialised rituals that feels like stepping back centuries. No electricity, no technology, phones switched off at the entrance. The evening prayer here, at sunset, is deeply moving. This is Vrindavan at its most undisturbed.
Katyayani Temple — A Shakti Peeth that sees very few tourists. I visited early morning and the energy there was quietly powerful. Worth seeking out.
Gopeshwar Mahadev Temple — Close to the Yamuna, this Shiva temple holds a beautiful legend: Lord Shiva, wishing to participate in Krishna's Raas Leela (which Radha Rani had declared exclusively for women), disguised himself as a Gopi. Hence the name — Gopeshwar Mahadev.
Yamuna Ghats — Underrated and quietly stunning. Evenings here, with the sun setting over the river and aarti prayers floating through the air, are pure bliss. Let yourself linger.
A word on the monkeys — They are everywhere, they are charming, and they are extremely strategic. Keep a close eye on your valuables near temples — they are well-practised at snatching bags, phones, and sunglasses, often holding them hostage until offered food or money. You've been warned. 🐒
The Lesson Vrindavan Left Me With
A trip that began with doubt, fear, and the weight of old wounds became one of my most cherished memories. Vrindavan during Holi, of all times — showed me the power of surrender.
When you trust the universe and take that step anyway, magic tends to show up.
If you have questions about Vrindavan, are planning your own trip, or just want to share your experience — reach out. I always love hearing from fellow travellers. Until next time, safe and beautiful travels. 🌸
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